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Tim Baynes
Joined: 21 Feb 2012 Posts: 5
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Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:24 am Post subject: Weight reduction |
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Just got back from our first race ever. We had some glitches, and did not finish either race, but we learned alot, met nice people, and had fun.
Weighed in with nearly a full tank at race end (see above) at 420!
Clearly there is some opportunity there. I'm looking for suggestions on where to trim some weight. I'm on a loaner chassis (Rocket) with my own engines, so won't be looking to do anything with the chassis itself, for now. Everything else (seat, wheels, tires, etc) is fair game, starting with my own weight. I'm 6-3, about 210, and got down to 192 a couple years ago for biking. Obviously need to do that again but don't think I can hold a weight below 192-195.
Like to find another 8-10 lbs off the kart if I can. Realistic? Ideas? |
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Craig Diller
Joined: 21 Sep 2006 Posts: 151 Location: United States, New York, Garden City
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Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:27 am Post subject: |
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| dont fill the talk all the way just put what you need to get through the race in it that should save you a pound or so |
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jeff grose
Joined: 11 Dec 2008 Posts: 1252 Location: United States, Florida, cocoa
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Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:55 am Post subject: |
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what series are you running, SKUSA,WKA or local race????
What motor, Leopard,Rotax,Vortex?????
Is the Tag class Senior,Masters,Heavy????
more info needed to make a good recommendations _________________ jlgracing
#31 Gillard/PDBAmerica
IAME Leopards by P1 Engines
Tag Sr./FKCS/WKA
Driver: Jesse Grose
Remember: "No matter where you go,there you are" |
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Tim Baynes
Joined: 21 Feb 2012 Posts: 5
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Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 10:18 am Post subject: |
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| jeff grose wrote: | what series are you running, SKUSA,WKA or local race????
What motor, Leopard,Rotax,Vortex?????
Is the Tag class Senior,Masters,Heavy????
more info needed to make a good recommendations |
I'm running in the MARRS series, road racing in the midwest. Leopard motor. Senior class (40+) but no Heavy available. The min weight for Senior class is 385. |
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Jeff Salak
Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 634 Location: United States, Illinois, Antioch
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Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 10:54 am Post subject: |
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In my honest opinion being over weight in RR isnt that important. Not like sprint racing.
A couple things that may help you.
Try and drop 10#'s.
Try to finish race with as little fuel as you can.
Does your kart have front brakes? If so try and race without them.
Kart suit, helmet and gear can save weight too.
Finish each race for track time.
Learn to drive with a pack of karts, driving in the draft.
Make sure your geared right.
Keep corner speed and hit your marks. |
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Tim Baynes
Joined: 21 Feb 2012 Posts: 5
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Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 10:59 am Post subject: |
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| Jeff Salak wrote: | ...
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Keep corner speed and hit your marks. |
Thanks for the advice Jeff. By "hit your marks" you mean braking points? |
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Jeff Salak
Joined: 01 Aug 2007 Posts: 634 Location: United States, Illinois, Antioch
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Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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| Yes, Tim thats exactly what I meant. |
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Chris Hurst
Joined: 27 Jul 2007 Posts: 572 Location: United States, California,
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Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 2:44 pm Post subject: |
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| It would probably be easier to lose 8-10lbs from exercising. Walk before you eat in the morning. Your body will go straight for the fats but be careful not to exercise too hard without eating or your body will start eating muscle. |
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Robby Mott Advertiser

Joined: 20 Aug 2001 Posts: 308
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Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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Order a lithium style battery...........the Rotax approved battery is about 5 pounds lighter than a standard battery.
Robby Mott
www.ribtect.com |
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Curtis Cooksey Advertiser

Joined: 16 Aug 2001 Posts: 312
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gregg boyce
Joined: 27 Jul 2004 Posts: 1143 Location: United States, Tennessee, nashville
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Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2012 2:52 pm Post subject: |
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Since its a Leopard (and it isn't against the rules or they just don't check ) You could take the battery completely off and if you're still not close enough take the guts out of the starter. That should net you 15-20lbs easy.
Mind you, if its against the rules for your club forget I said anything and start running.
GB _________________ My imaginary friend says your crazy. |
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Tim Baynes
Joined: 21 Feb 2012 Posts: 5
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Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2012 4:54 am Post subject: |
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Good info, thanks for the battery tips, I'm on that. Not sure I want to run with no onboard start capability, but that's a fine idea if I can't get there otherwise.
Next question: I'm going to go ahead with a new enduro/rr chassis, since I' on a loaner now. Looking to be in one in the next couple months.
Obviously there are a host of factors involved in choosing a new frame, but put aside almost every consideration but this: which chassis mfrs offer the lightest 32mm TAG frames? Light, with reasonable reliability - I don't want the one that will last one year, but the next step in from that, let's say.
No one seems to publish weights on their product - what's up with that? Every other industry seems to do so (cars, bikes, sailboats, planes, etc etc).
Or to ask a slightly different question: if you were going to go build the lightest 32mm TAG you could, what are the major components you'd choose? My budget is whatever I make it - I have flexibility there. |
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Scott Heavin
Joined: 18 Oct 2006 Posts: 1766 Location: United States, Indiana, New Castle
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Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:07 am Post subject: |
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Honestly, you're just not going to find a whole lot of weight reduction in a kart. I'd just have to guess that if you went from a showroom stock kart to putting every weight saving, wallet crushing piece you could on it, shortening every bolt to minimum, drilling everything you could without compromising strength, you might get 10-12 lbs. off of it. At a cost of thousands.
Will it make a difference in your lap times? Yes. But your lap times will suffer more from that wheel you dropped or that apex you missed.
Until you're at that level where almost every competitor puts every wheel perfect in every turn of every lap, the weight won't hurt you near as much as your driving will. _________________ Spec TaG Masters @ NCMP / #23 |
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Patrick Hubbell
Joined: 22 Jul 2001 Posts: 2548 Location: United States, California, San Jose
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Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 12:09 pm Post subject: |
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Look for a chassis that is made all from Chrome Moly or mostly. CTS is the only chassis made entirely of Chrome Molly. Right down to the pedals. CTS stopped making chassis' a while ago, there was an employee by the name of Ayal who took over. Don't know how to reach him. Northern Calif. _________________ Patrick Hubbell |
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Dan Schlosser
Joined: 25 Aug 2004 Posts: 684 Location: United States, Pennsylvania, Sewickley
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Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 10:04 pm Post subject: |
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Breadbox bodywork - not sexy but lighter than all the options. Worth 6-8 pounds on a Birel compared to the stock Freeline bodywork. Although for Road Racing the drag may offset the weight - need to talk to someone experienced in that area.
Carbon fiber Tillett seat - saves a pound plus and you have to buy a new seat with the kart anyway.
Carbon fiber floor pan - might have to get one handmade or there are some available already.
Magnesium components - RLV makes a very nice set of hubs and carriers that are pretty reasonable.
Lithium battery - Huge weight savings for cheap money and you probably end up with a better product to boot.
Suit & helmet - Suits can vary by 2-3 pounds, same with the helmets.
No graphics - Pick up a graphics kit still packaged and you'll be surprised how much weight they add. Again, not sexy but it really makes a difference.
In a Junior Yamaha kart we were able to shed 15 pounds utilizing many of the above methods and we didn't even have the luxury of the easy fix in the battery. |
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