Autocross alignment and setup?

Pax Rolfe · Joined: 28 Feb 2010 Posts: 18

How drastically does a good autocross setup and alignment differ from a track setup. Let's start with Camber and Toe. From what I've seen, nearly zero on both seems to be the recommendation. Does this apply to solo?
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Pax
Tulsa, OK

Alan Sheidler · Joined: 09 Aug 2001 Posts: 471

Zero is a good place to start for camber and toe. For caster, you may have to experiment a bit. Depending on the stiffness of your chassis, especially at the front, you may have to increase the caster angle to get more/quicker bite. That can also vary based on the locations of events. The increased traction on old concrete had us reducing front grip to keep our karts driveable.

Brad Fish · Joined: 03 Oct 2008 Posts: 45

I was just wondering the same thing as Pax.

Can I get some recommendations for chassis set up resources? I have seen a bunch of books, manuals, and websites, but I can't tell if any of them are good.

Thanks,

Jason Vehige · Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 6:27 pm Post subject:

In general .... I run as little castor as possible , 0 ish toe, remember...you're weight will add some toe in if you align it without you in the kart, pretty narrow up front, if it pushes add castor

Out back I tend to search for as much grip as possible.... Right now I am using a stiff rear setup... As narrow as wide hubs will allow... If it hopps mid corner try a bit wider in back...

Play around and make big changes at first to get a feel for what they do..... Beware of chasing old tires, it will mess You up!!!
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Jason Vehige

08 Gillard Charlotte / SGM sl204
05 Vanspeed Sirio / SGM sl204

Brian Garfield · Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 6:36 pm Post subject:

Here's my very simple opinion on this:

Every chassis requires a different setup. Zero EVERYthing. If the kart drives straight, and turns in... you're done...for awhile.

All I ever did with mine was make sure it felt comfortable for me to drive. I can tell you the settings were almost never the same left to right...

In the end, if it's not giving you a problem, just drive it that way. If you're gunning for a National championship, you're gonna need to study up so that YOU completely understand what each change does. At that point, you drive and then you fix it.

Brian

Bill Schmidt · Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 9:03 pm Post subject:

What do you do if you drive an antique like mine and have no castor or camber adjustment? Probably buy a newer kart?
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Bill Schmidt

'95 Trackmagic 125 shifter (Kawi)
'88 Red Devil F500 4-link rear (Rotax)

Alan Sheidler · Joined: 09 Aug 2001 Posts: 471

Joe Ricard · Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 4:46 am Post subject:

Bill needs to buy my ICC. Not so new but not so old either.

Things I've had to undo going from parking lots and cones to brandy new sprint track is swap out SKM C hard axle to a soft axle, 140MM long double clamp hubs to 70mm single clamp magnesium hubs. and remove one pair of seat struts.

Bill I got all that stuff still. Laughing

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Arrow AX-8/ Rotax Sr.

Bill Schmidt · Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 5:24 am Post subject:

Christian Hubbell · Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 5:56 pm Post subject:

I wouldn't worry about getting a new chassis. Set it at zero toe, and just drive the thing. Still plenty to play with, toe, ackerman, rear width, front width, tire pressures, weight balance to name a few. The TM guys were pretty smart and set the caster and camber to what works for that chassis. Those two are really the very last things to tweak for a certain condition and setup. You can be plenty fast with that chassis.

Bill Schmidt · Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 9:04 am Post subject:

Christian Hubbell · Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 10:25 am Post subject:

How do they mount to the steering rack side? Usually you can move things around there.

Bill Schmidt · Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 8:54 pm Post subject:

Okay, I brain farted there for a minute. It isnt the length that is a problem of the arm it is the width. The width where the tierod mount hole is about 3/4" wide. I suppose a tab could be welded onto the arm? Or, of course, buy new arms altogether (probably a better idea).
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Bill Schmidt

'95 Trackmagic 125 shifter (Kawi)
'88 Red Devil F500 4-link rear (Rotax)

Pax Rolfe · Joined: 28 Feb 2010 Posts: 18

Thanks for the responses. I did zero out the camber and toe while also adding caster. Kart was very neutral, slight push in one fast sweeper, not at all twitchy but turned in great. Result was FTD and 7th in PAX. Not bad I think for only 17 runs ever in the kart.
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Pax
Tulsa, OK