WB32 settings

Brad Linkus · Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 12:23 pm Post subject:

Pull the head and cylinder off and take a look, your ring may just be stuck from the Castor or it could be worse, a lot worse.
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John Mulvihill · Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 5:46 pm Post subject:

Hi Kirk,

Don't get too wound. Shocked

Ain't a big deal and we'll help you fix it. There is over a 1,000 years of knowledgeable experience on this forum.

Brad is right. Take out the sparkplug and break the 4 nuts loose that hold the head and cylinder in place. Than remove them.

Lift off the head and see how things look. Can you post a pic?

If not obvious damage, the next step will be to disconnect the carb and lift the cylinder off. I usually give the cylinder a couple smacks sideways with the ball of my hand to break gaskets loose. Go slow and try not to tear them. Usually they will come free without tearing if you are careful (and lucky) and work them loose.

The ring should be free and floating on the piston. If it isn't, there could be a couple causes. Caked on oil and carbon or aluminum that has moved off of the piston and pinned the ring. Again pics will help.

You will need an inch/lb torque wrench to put things back together, but first things first.

Let us know what you find.

John
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Kirk Deason · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 10:22 am Post subject:

John Mulvihill · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 2:57 pm Post subject:

OK. We're closing in.

It sometimes takes little to cause a ring to stick and sometimes it can be easy to fix.

Often the ring is 'stuck' in just one spot and things can get cleaned up. Not always a perfect solution, but most of us have done it, especially at the track.

The ideal solution would be to fit a new piston, new bearings and seals, oh don't forget a new chain, and , oh yah, new tires............

Let's wait for the photos......

Does this take a Dykes ring ('L' shaped) or a rail type ring (flat) ?

John
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Kirk Deason · Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 6:31 pm Post subject:

Well, I pulled everything apart, removed the ring, degunked and defunked it, cleaned the ring and the groove in the piston---put it ALL back together and put the compression tester on it, spun it a few dozen times with the starter and WHAM--a whopping 60 psi of pressure...a ten pound increase from the previous test.

That's not going to cut it. Should I start with a new piston and ring? Or are there more tests to run to see if there is a case leak or something else?

Edit: John, this is an "L" shaped (dykes) ring, per your question.

John Mulvihill · Posted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 5:37 am Post subject:

Hi Kirk,

Darn. That should have done more.

Probably not the issue but the carb needs to be wide open when you test.

Put about half a teaspoon of oil through the sparkplug hole and try again. That really should cause the compression to jump up as the oil seals the ring. This really won't mean much but at least proves the compression can be increased.

Perhaps the ring is collapsed or is no longer round. Sometimes the rings will lose their spring tension, against the cylinder walls, if they get too hot.

Or, it may no longer be round due to being stuck.

Take the cylinder and ring back off and slide the ring into the cylinder by itself.

1. It should go into the bore and spring tension should resist pushing it in.

2. Do a "light check". Put the ring into the bore about half way between the top of the exhaust and the top of the bore. Make sure that it is square to the bore. You might want to drop the cylinder down onto the piston to square the ring.

Then hold the cylinder up to a light and see if there are any gaps between the ring and the cylinder walls that let light through.

If light gets through that might be the problem and the ring is no longer round.

Another possibility (we always look at the most obvious first and forget the rest) is that there is a major leak somewhere.

Seals (Probably the one you can't see.) Head to cylinder sealing area Crankcase mating surface

Crack somewhere

If its where the head meets the cylinder that should be obvious because exhaust gas and oil would have seeped out and there should be a visible pattern. The others may not be so obvious. For those the cylinder will have to be pressurized and possibly dunked in water.

The head should be torqued in at least three steps in a criss-cross pattern. I'd do something like 70 inch-pounds on the first step then 110 than 150 inch pounds.

John
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Kirk Deason · Last edited by Kirk Deason on Wed Mar 14, 2012 2:38 pm, edited 2 times in total

I finally took advantage of our good weather to get back at the JICA. I took the cylinder off to measure the bore and came up with 52.30mm.

I'm starting this troubleshooting with a new piston and ring first. The ring was stuck in the piston groove (again) when i disassembled it.

Is there a specific piston brand or type I should purchase?

Kirk Deason · Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 2:29 pm Post subject:

OK< I realize the direction this post has taken is WAY off base from the original subject line. Sorry about that.

I am looking at the Italian Motors' website and see that there are different types of pistons of the same size. Red and Green. What is the difference if both have the same outside diameter?

I better go measure again.

Kirk Deason · Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 10:55 am Post subject:

I'll keep replying to my own post with more info--this is like blog therapy to me.

I re-measured multiple times last night and finally came up with 52.41 bore and 52.39 piston.

Does anyone have any input on the red vs green piston types and sizes?

Thom Howe · Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 2:34 pm Post subject:

The color code is used to allow a piston change without re-sizing the jug for wear. The red is 0.01mm larger than the green in the same piston size. Most motor builders will set up the jug on a green piston, and after so many hours (depending on how hard you run the motor), they replace the piston with a red dot piston. It is intended to increase the jug life while maintaining a good maintenance schedule.
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Kirk Deason · Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 2:45 pm Post subject:

I am posting this here to help others. I spoke with Claudio at Italian Motors. He kindly explained that the 'red' version is a couple thousandth's bigger than the green but that the difference was very slight.

I am also picking up a complete set of gaskets and replacing anything I see even if it doesn't appear to be damaged.

Here is a link to the Parilla Swift parts list and exploded drawings.
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0051/3282/files/020_PV_100_ESTERO_2006.pdf?100883

Kirk Deason · Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 12:21 pm Post subject:

I got all my new parts yesterday! Pics coming.

Kirk Deason · Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 8:05 am Post subject:

I fired it up yesterday! I had to choke it just a hair to get it to fire but it started up and ran fine. Italian Motors fixed me up. I have a couple minor things to adjust (throttle return and another brake tweak) but the motor sounds great. Thanks guys, for all of your help.