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Leopard Temps / Carb Tuning
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Pirooz Javan



Joined: 16 Apr 2010
Posts: 45

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:18 pm    Post subject: Leopard Temps / Carb Tuning Reply with quote

I just got my lap data off and put it into the RS2Analysis AIM tool (VERY COOL!)

At the track this weekend (very short track), I noticed I wasn't getting the temps (water = 105, exhaust = 720) where I wanted after two runs. I put some tape on radiator and dialed in the high needle from 1 1/8 to about 1. Outside temperature was 65 and sunny.

I only got one more run in and downloaded data:

Max RPM 14752
Max Water = 152 (overdid the tape here)
Max Exhaust = 762

I kept up with the front pack on the only straight there was. I guess my question is am I leaving power on the table to be had here? I keep hearing the recommended performance marks of 16.5k rpm and 1020-1040 exhaust and I'm not near there. Any suggestions on how to get there?
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Dan Haynes



Joined: 17 Sep 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have the jam nut on the EGT sensor? If so, the tip of the probe will not be in far enough to get an accurate reading. You want the tip to be in the center of the exhaust flow for most accurate readings.

How does the plug look? Flex? The flex should be dry and have a tannish tint.

Check this stuff before running it again. I'm sure you know what happens when you lean it too much Shocked
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TJ Koyen



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

14.5k is way low for RPMs. What's your gearing like in relation to the other guys?
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al nunley



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Dan has some good points. One other is; where is the exhaust probe. What distance from the piston face. Is it "about" the same as others.
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Pirooz Javan



Joined: 16 Apr 2010
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the replies. I do have the nut for the exhaust, but what would be the difference that would make? Let's say -100 or so? It can't be the range I'm at. It's also placed consistent with where others are at.

I'm running 11/83 which is consistent with others at the track.

So from what I'm hearing...the things to consider are:

gear ratio
plug condition
flex condition

Glad nobody is recommending turning in another 1/8 on the carb right off the bat. I don't want to stick the engine.
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Matt Dixon



Joined: 21 May 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The needles are like a water faucet, sometimes you got to close the cold water to make the water hotter... wheres your low speed?
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Dan Haynes



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take the nut off the sensor then try it. I bet your temps come up quite a bit.
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Juan D Gomez



Joined: 28 Apr 2010
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After reading this yesterday and looking at my kart I realized I had the jam nut in the EGT sensor.
So, I decided to give it a try and take it off to see what the difference in temperature is.

I screwed it back on and when it got to the point where the jam nut was I had to use a little more force and SNAP!!! Evil or Very Mad
Broke the stupid sensor and now I have a headache trying to get the stupid tread out. aggggg!

So let this be a lesson to everyone so it doesn't happen to you.
Don't force the sensor all the way in! and maybe the jam nut is there for a reason.
Adjust your readings. Who knows what the temperature differential is with/without nut?
If you are shooting for 1000deg or so. Is that with or without nut?
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Last edited by Juan D Gomez on Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:13 am, edited 2 times in total
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Jeffrey Dyer



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

14,700 rpm is low. More gear. I would shoot for 16,000 to 16,500.
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Dan Haynes



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmm...that sucks about the sensor snapping. I don't know of anyone that runs the jam nut. Maybe it's there in case you thread directly into the pipe wall. If there is a bung welded on AND you use the jam nut then the tip is way outside of the exhaust flow. I would think that would cause erratic readings but have never tried it.
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Jim McMahon



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How is the color of the inside of the exhaust header? EGT is only useful is you have other data to co-relate it to IMO. The color of the plug, head, piston crown and exhaust header will tell you where your jetting is at. Don't both chasing revs until you feel your jetting is in ballpark.
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al nunley



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bummer about the broken sensor. My guess is the threads in the header got a lot of “stuff” in them and should have been cleaned out with a tap.
Not much help now though.
Still, if the sensor isn’t in the center of the flow, you get bad information. I would call the manufacturer and get their view on this problem.
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Pirooz Javan



Joined: 16 Apr 2010
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sucks about the needle breaking. I think in my situation the right thing to do is check the plugs and only minor adjustments to the high needle on the carb. Going up from 83 to 84/85 seems to be the most reasonable first choice.
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TJ Koyen



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd double check your front sprocket too and make sure it really is an 11t. It's hard to think you'd be down 2k RPMs on the other guys on the same gear.
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Pirooz Javan



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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TJ,

Good thought. I actually was running a 10T.

On a side note, I know this depends highly on weather conditions, but I'm curious to know what everyone sets their Low/High to as the default before adjustments? I'm hearing a lot of variance at the track...
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