Minimum distance between two sprockets ??

[Paul Hutt]

Wondering how close the teeth of the two sprockets can be from one another. This is probably a strange question. However, I have a Wildkart “”World Formula”” chassis that is not designed to accommodate the engine as it should be.

Problem is that the chassis tube where the seat is mounted interferes with the bolt that holds the clutch on. So the engine is forward so that the bolt is not interfering with the tube. This also means that the engine mount tensioner bolt is short of the engine mount by 1 1/2”. Also the clutch cannot be reversed so the clutch driver gear is next to the crankcase cover.

To get clutch bolt behind the tube the engine so the engine mount tensioner could be used the engine would have to be moved back 2 ½”. That would result in the teeth of the two sprockets being approximately 3 ¾” from one another. To be able to reverse the clutch and have sufficient clearance the engine would have to be moved back 4”. That would mean the sprockets teeth would be 2 1/4” apart!!!
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Race Grandpa
Panic Motorsports West

[Chris Hatch]

Paul,

I am not totally clear on what your describing, but I have a pretty good idea, I think.

First, the engine on my kart has the crankshaft center-line in front of my right seat strut. The clutch gear just clears the seat so the chain won't rub (running outboard). Get a longer tension bolt (or just get rid of it). ALso, you can shift the motor mount to the right and gain some clearance. You can also bend your seat post to the left and get clearance. Basically, I want my engine at my right elbow.

[Paul Hutt]

[Paul Hutt]

Chris,

I took the kart to Kart-O-Rama and they knew what the problem is. The problem is a result of Wildkart’s “World Formula” chassis is for 2-cycles and not for 4-cycles.




I suspect that Wildkart has never seen a 4-cycle engine. If they did they surely did they did not test their “”World Formula”” kart on the track.
The problem is primarily a result of the kart not having enough flex. First the lack of flex is due to having support brace that is welded to the right and left side rails and located behind the seat. So that is going to be removed. Secondly there is a third axle cassette/collar bearing. So that is going to be removed.


To add some additional insurance that the chain will not come off the clutch needs to be reversed so the clutch driver is in board next to the crankcase cover. The Wildkart is not designed to allow the clutch to be reversed as the right seat support interferes with the clutch. So the right seat support is going to be removed and a clamp-on seat support put on. In addition I am going to put on a sprocket guard, which all the WF karts in this area use.

I do not have the experience to do this type of surgery and will have the shop do it. I am anticipating a bill of approximately $450 to $500, which includes a new chain as it is suspected that it was damaged. I believe that having to go through this is completely unacceptable. This is an example of false advertising that has cost me a lot of money, wasted trips to the track and several moments when I thought I should quit karting.




Hope we get to meet one of these days. Would like to get to PIR. However, this has caused me so much money that it may have to wait until next year.
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Race Grandpa
Panic Motorsports West

[Benn Herr]

Paul,

Are you sure they sold you a World Formula chassis? The picture on the Wildkart site shows the frame cross member with plenty of clearance. Maybe the place you got the kart from was trying to get rid of some old stock or didn't know what they had. There might be some compensation possible if they sold you the wrong stuff.

http://www.wildkart.it/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.garden_flypage&product_id=1098&category_id=49&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=30
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Benn Herr
Come see our Superkart Build Off @
http://www.lostenduros.com/?page_id=1534
beherr3@cox.net
http://www.southwestkarters.com/
http://www.lostenduros.com/
Kart Design
Chandler, Az.

[Paul Hutt]

[Paul Hutt]

Ben,

I did notice that they have the 3rd axle cassette/collar bearing. The store I went to said it should not have the 3rd one.

Paul
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Race Grandpa
Panic Motorsports West

[John Matthews]

Normally I just unbolt the 3rd bearing and zip tie it in place. No need to remove it.

Post some pics so we can see what you have.
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John Matthews
Heartbeat Power, LLC.

[Chris Hatch]

The W/F kart by wild kart as shown on their website as well as a W/F kart I saw at the track would work for the W/F. I would suggest the person who sold you the kart was the one false advertising. The cross bar angling towards the rr bearing cassette is a dead give away as no 4 cycle kart runs that set-up as the rear sprocket is mounted inboard on a 4-cycle vs. outboard on the 2 cycles.

[Paul Hutt]

[Paul Hutt]

Just got a PM from a dealer. He believes the chassis is a Euro-design for high horsepower 4-cycles.

I feel a lot better.
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Race Grandpa
Panic Motorsports West

[Chris Hatch]

I think your "dealer" is full of crap. Your kart is CLEARLY, not the w/f kart on wild karts page nor is it the WIldkart W/F I have seen in person. SOmeone is trying to talk and talk and talk their way out of responsibility.

Paul, please private message me with whom you are dealing with. I would like to know, since I am in your region and find it informative to know what people are doing and saying.

[Mitch Wright]

Paul,

Have you looked into the Burris jackshaft motor mount as a bolt on solution?

[Chris Brunnemer]