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Gene Heagney



Joined: 07 Aug 2009
Posts: 91
Location: United States, Florida, Cocoa Beach

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:55 am    Post subject: Brakes Reply with quote

Just wondering how hard the brakes are supposed to grab. With the kart on the stand, should I be able to turn the tire with the brakes applied? Or do they brakes need to lock down harder than that?

As of now, I can get a good grip on the tire and turn it. It's not really easy... but I can turn it. And I'm not a bodybuilder by any means haha.
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Larry Andrews



Joined: 13 May 2002
Posts: 2846
Location: United States, California, SC Mtns

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:04 am    Post subject: Re: Brakes Reply with quote

Gene Heagney wrote:
With the kart on the stand, should I be able to turn the tire with the brakes applied?


Um, no. It should be like a rock and you should be able to just barely detect a hint of give in the axle bearings. Anything less and you don't have good brakes. (I'll admit to liking brakes that are just a tiny bit mushy...better modulation IMO but less stopping power)

Sounds like you've got some work to do. Start with bleeding, if that doesn't do it:

1) Bleed again, tapping the lines and fittings to knock loose air bubbles.
2) Bleed again, just because sometimes it makes a difference.
3) Rebuild caliper - new seals and make sure the bore is clean. Sand ridges off the pistons.
4) Start at 1 again.
5) Rebuild master cylinder. It's often cheaper to just replace them as they tend to pick up grit and develop grooves. Sand out the grooves if you can but they'll never be right again. BTDT.
6) Start at 1 again.
7) Bleed some more. I can't emphasize this enough - it's almost always the reason for soft brakes.
8 ) Try new pads and rotors if they're chewed up.

Hope this helps! Sorry if this comes across as grumpy - I've beaten my head against brake systems for a long time and it took me forever to figure it out. Apologies for the chip on my shoulder... Smile
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Gene Heagney



Joined: 07 Aug 2009
Posts: 91
Location: United States, Florida, Cocoa Beach

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its ok.. thanks for responding.

I've re-built all the capilers and both master cylinders. It's a good possibility that I didn't bleed them good enough. But its also a good possibility that the master cylinders are done. They had some pretty nasty grooves. I tried to clean them up... but they might be junk.
But I'll try bleeding the brakes good again. Maybe I'll get lucky and that will help..

I just don't know what normal is for a shifter kart, so I figured I'd try and find out before I assumed wheter they are good or not. Thanks again.
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Larry Andrews



Joined: 13 May 2002
Posts: 2846
Location: United States, California, SC Mtns

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If there's grooves in the master cylinder, pressurised fluid could be getting back past the seals. If it is, the piston will pull air back past the seals every trip back and forth. Once air's in there, brakes go away.

I tried sanding out the grooves, but found the bores were so wobbly (?) that it was pointless. Once I got through the anodizing, the aluminum just melted away. Not sure what brakes you've got, but the wildkart masters were only $70 each (a few years back) and made a huge improvement. It looks like they now sell a self-adjusting m/c but I bet they're about $200 each.

Of course, the wheel cylinders were nearly as bad and replacement parts or sleeving was going to be nearly $500.
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Gene Heagney



Joined: 07 Aug 2009
Posts: 91
Location: United States, Florida, Cocoa Beach

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I think the master cylinders are shot. I put fluid in yesterday and bled them. Went back today and the kart still felt like it had about as much pedal as it did yesterday (hard to tell because I was by myself today so I didn't have someone to either hold the pedal or try and turn the wheels). But I noticed fluid finding its way out of the bore on the master cylinder.
I have an older Birel with the older style Freeline brakes. I'm not sure that the calipers are all that bad. When I had them apart they didn't look terrible. And I honed them very lightly. So I guess I'm gonna try new master cylinders and see if that solves the problem.
What do you think about using MCP master cylinders with the freeline's? I'm guessing I'll have to go with the billet (if at all), or can I go with the standard?
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Larry Andrews



Joined: 13 May 2002
Posts: 2846
Location: United States, California, SC Mtns

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gene - dono about the Birel brakes, never had or worked on one and their hardware seems first-rate. Am pretty sure that you'll be able to get a lot of choices when all is said and done - it's sort of a matter of how much work and cash do you want to put into the kart?

Does sound like new m/c's will help a lot.

I can give you some tips on getting the bores sleeved if you need...
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Benn Herr



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 1579

PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gene Heagney wrote:
Yeah I think the master cylinders are shot. I put fluid in yesterday and bled them. Went back today and the kart still felt like it had about as much pedal as it did yesterday (hard to tell because I was by myself today so I didn't have someone to either hold the pedal or try and turn the wheels). But I noticed fluid finding its way out of the bore on the master cylinder.
I have an older Birel with the older style Freeline brakes. I'm not sure that the calipers are all that bad. When I had them apart they didn't look terrible. And I honed them very lightly. So I guess I'm gonna try new master cylinders and see if that solves the problem.
What do you think about using MCP master cylinders with the freeline's? I'm guessing I'll have to go with the billet (if at all), or can I go with the standard?


Gene,
The MCP stuff will work great, it's what we use. Go with the billet ones, they have a smaller bore and it'll match your existing setup better. You may need to make a few of the bits to adapt the linkage and lines but there is nothing that's a show-stopper.

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Benn Herr
Come see our Superkart Build Off @
http://www.lostenduros.com/?page_id=1534
beherr3@cox.net
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http://www.lostenduros.com/
Kart Design
Chandler, Az.
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Bill Martin



Joined: 20 Jul 2001
Posts: 401
Location: United States, California, Escondido

PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Benn Herr wrote:

Gene,
The MCP stuff will work great, it's what we use. Go with the billet ones, they have a smaller bore and it'll match your existing setup better. You may need to make a few of the bits to adapt the linkage and lines but there is nothing that's a show-stopper.


Benn, I like the brake bias set up you have in the picture! But it does look kind of "non-adjustable"! How did you do the heim joints on the lever arms, weld on? Would like a better picture of just that part... it is Sooo clean compared to most.

bill
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Benn Herr



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 1579

PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bill,

It's adjustable, just not quickly! Once you find the balance you need you hardly ever change it. The bosses are just welded onto a standard arm that has been cut down. Make sure the bosses are think enough to withstand the heat without distorting, Trim the arms to fit, clean all the cad plating off and have a good welder do his stuff. Oh, and don't try welding on the arms with out taking them off the masters! I don't have any real good pictures but these should help.



I made our bosses out of 5/8" solid steel and drilled and tapped them. The rod ends are 5/16". Use good quality ends - it's important! 5/16" is also about the minimum diameter you can use for the balance bar. Any smaller and it will bend when you use it.
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Benn Herr
Come see our Superkart Build Off @
http://www.lostenduros.com/?page_id=1534
beherr3@cox.net
http://www.southwestkarters.com/
http://www.lostenduros.com/
Kart Design
Chandler, Az.
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Bill Martin



Joined: 20 Jul 2001
Posts: 401
Location: United States, California, Escondido

PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 1:16 pm    Post subject: extra pictures Reply with quote

Benn Herr wrote:
Bill,

It's adjustable, just not quickly! Once you find the balance you need you hardly ever change it. The bosses are just welded onto a standard arm that has been cut down. Make sure the bosses are think enough to withstand the heat without distorting, Trim the arms to fit, clean all the cad plating off and have a good welder do his stuff. Oh, and don't try welding on the arms with out taking them off the masters! I don't have any real good pictures but these should help.

<snip> Pictures are just great, thank you for them.

I made our bosses out of 5/8" solid steel and drilled and tapped them. The rod ends are 5/16". Use good quality ends - it's important! 5/16" is also about the minimum diameter you can use for the balance bar. Any smaller and it will bend when you use it.


Ben, I may just have to make up some parts..really hate the floppy linkage.

-bill
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Mike Goebel



Joined: 28 Jul 2001
Posts: 5761
Location: United States, California, Winnetka

PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The thing that always scares me on those masters is those tiny pivot pins.


Mike G.
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Benn Herr



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 1579

PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Goebel wrote:
The thing that always scares me on those masters is those tiny pivot pins.


Mike G.


Actually the pivots are not as small as they look. The cotter pin goes through a split roll pin that is pressed in to the body ears. When I took apart an old master cylinder (old, as in from the 80's) to rebuild it, the roll pin was only slightly worn.

That said, I am more comfortable with the machined billet ones I have versus the cast ones. But i've never seen one of those break either.
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Benn Herr
Come see our Superkart Build Off @
http://www.lostenduros.com/?page_id=1534
beherr3@cox.net
http://www.southwestkarters.com/
http://www.lostenduros.com/
Kart Design
Chandler, Az.
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Robbie Nelson



Joined: 26 May 2008
Posts: 131

PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Benn,

Is that a Birel chassis? If so, is that the stock master cylinder bracket or is has it been extended?

Let me get to my root question... Will the MCP master cylinders bolt right on to my CR32X chassis or will I need to modify the bracket?
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Benn Herr



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 1579

PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robbie,

The MCP will not bolt straight on to your Birel, you'll have to rat-tail out one of the holes a little bit. The extended tab on our Birel kart is because the rear brake line I had was too short! I have a welder and a drill and the steel - but I couldn't wait for the right line to get here.

The things you do on a Friday night. Smile
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Benn Herr
Come see our Superkart Build Off @
http://www.lostenduros.com/?page_id=1534
beherr3@cox.net
http://www.southwestkarters.com/
http://www.lostenduros.com/
Kart Design
Chandler, Az.
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Brian Wilhelm



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 873
Location: United States, Arkansas,

PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 12:01 pm    Post subject: ? Reply with quote

Check out the adjustable bias bar Russell Karing sells.
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