1999 tonykart extreme brake bleeding

lue xiong

ok folks i need help.i took my caliper and brake lines off to clean thinking it was going to be as easy as pumping air out he lines and i be good but thats not the case.every time i connect hose air goes back in when i let off the pedal.so what do i need if i dont have bleeding tool.old style brake without brake reservoir. and how do i put i put in more fluid.thank you

John Matthews · Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 2:18 pm Post subject:

You can make a bleeder with some hose, a funnel, and a fitting that will go into the master cylinder.

But, with a 1999 chassis chances are pretty good you'll need to rebuild at least one caliper. You'll know this when after you've got everything bled you only have brakes for a short time and then they stop working again. Might as well go through the entire system and make sure it's right, you will want to be able to stop Shocked

Head out to the track this weekend and make some friends Idea

Pretty much everyone's willing to help until it looks like you might beat them Wink

Cheers,
_________________
John Matthews
Heartbeat Power, LLC.

D.A. Law · Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 2:19 pm Post subject: tony extreme

I bleed mine by myself all the time. This process was faster and easier then connecting my gravity brake bleeder.
I use a ketchup or mustard type squeeze bottle.....you can get at any market or supply store.....try walmart......I look for one with a wide not to deep snout I bought a rubbermaid....if need be, cut it to fit tight in the master cylinder opening.
Fill it with fluid stick it in the master and squeeze, keep squeezing keeping pressure in the line....it will push the air out....
I use my left hand for the bottle and right hand with the allen wrench for the caliper....
bleed the top fitting on the caliper first, till nothing but brake fluid is running and then the bottom......
make sure the bottle is full so you don't induce any air.
Repeat a second time.
Tip the bottle off the master so that the master stays full put the plug back in the master and you should have a firm tight pedal
...............you'll spill brake fluid on the chassis so keep it covered with a rag and don't forget to put a catch pan on the ground for the over flow off the master and caliper.
I hope the process and directions weren't to confusing.

Ted Hamilton · Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 2:36 pm Post subject:

Unless your brakes have been upgraded, that era of Tony brakes are NOTORIOUSLY prone to air leaks, etc.

First thing I would do, if they've sat over 3 mos.:

1 - remove rear calipers and pull off shoes
2 - remove piston cups and rubber cup seals
(Mine were frozen from age and rust. I had to carefully press mine out using an allen key in a vise, through the hole the elbow normally goes in on the caliper half...Don't bugger up the threads or the rubber cup.)
3 - use a brass wire wheel to remove the age-old dirt/brake fluid buildup on the cylinder wall. Don't use a steel wire wheel, as it will wear the cylinder wall unevenly. Repeat for other side.
4 - re-install rear brake assembly and loosen bleed screws.
5 - loosen master cylinder refill cap, fill, close, and bleed as normal. NOTE: pump the brakes with the cap off several times as air bubbles get trapped on the internal springs...
6 - enjoy working brakes for 3 mos. or until a leak happens in the rear.
7 - repeat any time the kart has sit for a while...

or

8 - buy a Euro-style rear caliper assembly and forget 1-7 above. Smile

I have a spare rear brake assembly from that era if you need one, and J3 Competition in Erie, PA has the rebuild kit for the master cylinders and rear calipers. If they don't, Andre Martins of TonyKart Florida should.

Best of luck... ~Ted

PS - I have access to another Tony Extreme frame from '99 if you need one. I have a 1998 Esprit and enjoy it still.
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Owner, www.hamiltonhelmets.com // UAS Racer #76 // Karting for karting's sake...keep it fun!

lue xiong · Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 4:46 pm Post subject:

thanks everyone for your responses and step by step help, but i'm not quite sure how to do it still. it sounds like everyone does it differently and have different methods. here are a few pictures to show what i'm working with. just to be sure, do i fill brake fluid on the top allen bolt on the master? if possible, is there anyone who can send me a turtorial video on this? i want to learn how to do this myself.

[/img]

lue xiong · Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:46 pm Post subject:

i figured it out silly me.

Ted Hamilton · Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 7:03 pm Post subject:

This is the exact setup I have, except that my lines aren't clear... If you need spares, let me know.

The purpose-built karting brake bleeder tool w/ 10mm nozzle is one of the best $$ you'll spend in karting, especially as often as you'll need it with this system. That said, I used a homemade setup to bleed my brakes and it worked fine (using gravity to assist)

I have a part number for replacement pads by Ferodo if you need it too...

Cheers,

~Ted
_________________
Owner, www.hamiltonhelmets.com // UAS Racer #76 // Karting for karting's sake...keep it fun!

Walt Gifford · Posted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:30 am Post subject:

On a system that old carefully inspect the full lenght of the plastic brake lines. If you see any flat spots replace them.

Gif Cool

Jeff Stamper · Posted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:55 am Post subject:

I would just replace with new braided lines !
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Racing is a State of Mind ! ... A very nice state to be in !

lue xiong · Posted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 5:12 pm Post subject:

thanks everyone new to this so all the suggestions will be great.

Chad Stapleton · Joined: 19 Jul 2001 Posts: 4403

I just fully rebuilt the brakes on one of my karts... just like those.
Took about 2 hours work + half a day chasing around for new seals etc.
Tip:-- dont bother cruising round the kart shops all over town looking for the piston seals like i did. Its a 50/50 chance they will have the correct ones, so just go straight to the local auto brake shop with the old parts ..they have a much bigger selection and were able to match the parts exactly for $5 total ! Shocked

I wasted several hours and $20 of gas driving around shops, only to find the local brake factor down my street had the parts . !

Dohhh ! Rolling Eyes

_________________
Chad
"Those of you who think you know everything are annoying to those of us who do !!"

John Iasiello · Joined: 03 Sep 2012 Posts: 1

What's the actual bleeding process for these? I've been told it's totally different than car brakes.

Ted Hamilton · Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:39 pm Post subject:

Easiest is to buy the metric gravity bleeder that screws into the master cylinders...screw in, fill, open valve, pump brakes several times to get rid of bubbles in master cylinder, go to rear, open bleeder valve, drain til new fluid comes out and no bubbles, close bleed screw, close valve on gravity bleeder, remove, cap master cylinder. Test.....repeat if neccesary.
_________________
Owner, www.hamiltonhelmets.com // UAS Racer #76 // Karting for karting's sake...keep it fun!