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SEAT LOCATION ON CRG ROAD REBEL

 
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Nate Feaster



Joined: 04 Apr 2007
Posts: 28
Location: United States, Texas, Pearland

PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:34 pm    Post subject: SEAT LOCATION ON CRG ROAD REBEL Reply with quote

I CAN'T FIT IN THE SEAT OF THE KART I JUST PURCHASED. I HAVE A DEEP SEAT TO PUT IN ITS PLACE. A COUPLE QUESTIONS.
1. ORIGINAL SEAT WAS SET UP FOR 175 LBS DRIVER, I WEIGH 210 W/GEAR ON. COULD I DRILL AND BOLT BACK TO THE SAME LOCATION THE ORIGINAL SEAT WAS IN FOR STARTER? WOULD I NEED TO MOVE THE SEAT BACK 1/2" TO GET MORE WEIGHT TO THE AXLE?

I HAVE SOME GUIDELINES FROM CRG FOR PLACEMENT, BUT THEY ARE CONFUSING AND DON'T REALLY SAY WHAT TO DO FOR A HEAVIER DRIVER.

ANY ONE HAVE A SKETCH OR GOOD DIAGRAM THAT I COULD USE TO HELP GET IT IN CORRECTLY. I WILL SCALE IT AFTER FOR FINE TUNING.

THANK YOU,
NATE
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Walt Gifford



Joined: 19 Jul 2002
Posts: 4346
Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have much experiance with the big and tall because I am one also.

Mount your seat as far forward as you can and still get you knees comfortably under the steering wheel. Tilt the steering collum as far forward as you can and, get a steering shaft extended hub for the steering wheel. It will be barely enough to get a 40/60 balance.

Mount the seat as low as you can. Get your kart on a flat level surface and use a piece of 3/4" ply under the seat when you drill the holes. 3/4" ground clearance is minimum without scraping too much.

Use one seat strut per side to help prevent hopping.


Hope that helps,

Giffy Cool
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Oscar Aguilera



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 1614

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2007 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the seat measurements from CRG are for a standard seat. you have to allow for the difference in size and extra fiberglass that a deep seat has.

I would call deep seat and ask charlie. he raced a CRG and probably has the correct demensions.

IMO never mount the seat below the frame rails, especially if you are big or new, or the track you race on is really bumpy. it isnt worth the cost of your seat to be wearing a hole in the bottom.

the back measurement is from the top of the axle to the lip on the back of a standard seat. the front measurement is from the back of the front chassis tube. so line up your tape with the end touching the front tube by the pedals. right where the tab is welded that holds the floor pan is usually a good spot. then measure to the tip of the seat where your leg comes out of the seat. the side by the throttle is usually the long side by 1-2 cm. so the brake side is shorter. make sure the seat is level. you can put a straight edge across the top of the seat and eyeball it to the axle for level. putting a level on it seldom works because the seat is at an angle to the front and kart stands arent level usually.

when you get the measurements from charlie the procedure is the same. make sure the chassis tubes on the side of the seat are snug and not binding the seat.
the seat goes in a certain spot and really doesnt move unless you are in extreme track conditions or know when you would need to move it.
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David Walters



Joined: 15 Mar 2007
Posts: 43
Location: United States, Colorado, Denver

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2007 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oscar Aguilera wrote:
IMO never mount the seat below the frame rails, especially if you are big or new, or the track you race on is really bumpy. it isnt worth the cost of your seat to be wearing a hole in the bottom.


I saw this exact thing happen to a new Swiss Hutless buyer.Bad part is,it looked like the dealer who set the kart/seat up was there trackside to dial in the kart for the customer.I figured he ought to know better.Somebody was out $300 for a Ribtect seat,though.

I also have a RR/Ribtect,so I installed my seat 1" off the ground, which is still below the frame,but I also layered 3, 1/16" pieces of sacrificial neoprene to the underside of the seat with glue.Don't care if the rules allow it since I'm not class racing.

My axle is also set to the highest position,so I still have some room left if I need it.
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joseph hollinger



Joined: 12 Sep 2002
Posts: 9532
Location: United States, California, san francisco

PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

David Walters wrote:
,but I also layered 3, 1/16" pieces of sacrificial neoprene to the underside of the seat with glue.


There are better materials for that. I've got a seat protector made
out of the same material that they use to manufacture skateboard
rails. You can buy it in sheet form if you are really interested. I could
drive around on the bottom of my seat all day and it wouldn't wear
through.


Last edited by joseph hollinger on Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:13 pm, edited 1 time in total
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David Walters



Joined: 15 Mar 2007
Posts: 43
Location: United States, Colorado, Denver

PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joseph hollinger wrote:
David Walters wrote:
,but I also layered 3, 1/16" pieces of sacrificial neoprene to the underside of the seat with glue.


skateboard rails.


Hmm, I'll bite.'Splain what a skateboard rail is to a 43 YO geezer.And,will your material conform to contours of the underside of the seat? And how is it secured to the seat? I don't want to drill anymore holes through the seat, much less have conical washers exactly where my arse sits.
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joseph hollinger



Joined: 12 Sep 2002
Posts: 9532
Location: United States, California, san francisco

PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

David Walters wrote:
joseph hollinger wrote:
David Walters wrote:
,but I also layered 3, 1/16" pieces of sacrificial neoprene to the underside of the seat with glue.


skateboard rails.


Hmm, I'll bite.'Splain what a skateboard rail is to a 43 YO geezer.And,will your material conform to contours of the underside of the seat? And how is it secured to the seat? I don't want to drill anymore holes through the seat, much less have conical washers exactly where my arse sits.


Here's the stuff: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dyneema

I've had a 1/8 or maybe 3/16 inch sheet of that stuff on my
seat bottom since I started karting ('99 or so). The same
sheet. And while I don't crash all that often now, I used to
be off the track more than on.
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Mike Kellum



Joined: 25 Feb 2004
Posts: 2215
Location: United States, Oklahoma, Moore

PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joseph,
where do you get this fantastic plastic?
_________________
Idiocy is the new smartness: Or How I learned to stop thinking and love the Cloward/Piven Strategy.
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Dave Robinson



Joined: 25 Jul 2002
Posts: 1608
Location: United States, Kansas,

PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ask around at any plastics seller for UHMW. Very tough stuff, I made a bunch of suspension bushing out of it and it actaully ground on the grade 8 bolts and did not wallow out at all.

Dave
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Oscar Aguilera



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 1614

PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't get me wrong. I find the need to put the seat below the frame rails on some occassions.

but i dont advise a new guy, big guy, or a guy that runs on a bumpy track to do the below the rails mounting.

so in all fairness to a dealer that mounts the seat correctly it does generally go 1/4 inch below according to factory specs on some chassis and usually in the sticky tire categories.

if the seat is flush with the rails there is no need for any skid plates unless you drive over the middle of a stump. Laughing the frame will slide over the curbs and pavement from hanging a wheel. Your motor mounts will take the most abuse if your hanging wheels anyway.
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