Rain Preventive Maintenance

Brian Garfield · Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 3:18 am Post subject: Rain Preventive Maintenance

I know to spray down the kart with WD40 real well after a rain event. But what about preventive maintenance?

Would it be a good idea to spray the entire kart PRIOR to driving in the rain?

Anything else?

Thanks,
Brian

William Sandoval · Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 8:18 am Post subject:

put some sort of rain hood on your airbox to prevent your motor from ingesting too much water.

Noah Stark · Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 8:23 am Post subject:

Use sealed bearings, wrap your ingnition box, my-chron and logging unit in a baggie and tie-wrap it or tape it sealed. Also on any electrical connection between your stator and wiring harness and/or coil, make sure all connectors are in like new shape with a touch of di-electric grease in them. Then water-tight seal them with clear soft-drying silicone and then with a high-quality 3M electrical tape. You must run a air-box, thats the only way to keep most of the water out. Drill a few small holes in the very bottom of your seat so the water can run out. Use tons of WD-40 on your tie-rod ends and pipe. Also use either the dry-wax type chain lube or a teflon anti-corrosion lube on the chain. You can stop water from going just about everywhere except the chain. Almost no matter what, your gonna need to at least take it off, soak it in parts cleaner and check it out after every rain day. You will also need to adjust your jetting. More humidity, less fuel. Airbox flows less than a K&N, so less air even less fuel. All carb vents must loop upwards then back down unless you have them going to a tank. The vent hoses also cannot have any air-vent cuts in them so the overflow tank must be vented extremely well. Loop your fuel tank vent hose so no water can possibly get in. Put a good, no-slip grips either on the pedals or your shoes along with the shifter. Also wear a pair of mechanix style leather work gloves as they still grip well even when wet as comparred to some other karting gloves. But most importantly keep your self dry!!!! Use black garbage bags if you have to. Remember water is 7# per gallon and your suit, seat and everything else will soak up 4,5,6....gallons of water on a given day. If you can reflect the water, you will stay warmer, drier, lighter and faster!!
_________________
Noah Stark
RIP my friend:Paul Dana you will be missed by many

Brian Garfield · Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 8:42 am Post subject:

Great stuff, so here's some questions:

1) We (there's 3 karts I have to do this to) all have airboxes. Would it be better to turn the holes inward as opposed to vertical? Do we still need something over the four holes?

2) So, I'm jetting RICHER in the rain, correct?

3) Replace the current carb vent hoses (holes in top) with new uncut ones. Maybe pop the lid off of the overflow?

Thanks,
Brian

Noah Stark · Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 9:11 am Post subject:

1. If you are running a 4-hole airbox, turn it so the holes at 45deg are either facing straight up or turned slightly toward the driver(at like a 45deg angle at the most). They make small screens that you can put over the tubes. Absolutely do not use them!!! They are extremely restrictive! You can do one or both of two things. Use a foam filter inside the airbox, or buy one of EJ's box sock by outerwears. They are water proof and flow well. The outwears will not cover the back straight out holes however. Also you are allowed a .125 drain hole in the airbox. Drill it at the lowest point on the box. You will get some water in there no matter what. Give it a way to get out other than through the carb.
2. You will need to run a smaller main jet in the rain. You will be rich compared to normal conditions. Remember, you need oxygen to burn the fuel. If its raining, more humid, hotter, cloudy... there is less O2 in the air so you cant burn as much fuel. The best air is early morning, with it being mostly sunny and cool. The sun will burn off the humidity and keep the air dry.
3. Leave the overflow lid on, just make sure it has plenty of vent. If you are running 2 tubes into it, run 2 tubes of vent. If its not vented, you will choke the carb and load up the motor which is even worse in the rain than in normal conditions as the motor cant burn the excess fuel as fast and easily.
_________________
Noah Stark
RIP my friend:Paul Dana you will be missed by many

Chris M Johnson · Joined: 14 Oct 2005 Posts: 568

Are most bearings "sealed"?

Bob Monday · Joined: 21 May 2004 Posts: 91

Most come that way, but most racers will remove the seals. They cause drag, and the grease in most bearings is pretty heavy. It's also easier to wash the bearings out and re-lube them after a race if there are no seals.

I leave the seals in the outside bearing on the front wheels, but that's all. Note that some karts have two bearings in the outside of the front hub: I only leave the seal in the outside of the outside one. My MBA chassis was made like that. That lets me clean and lube, knowing that the lube is getting through, but not slinging lube out onto my front brakes.

In 3+ years of racing, both sprint and long-track, I think I've only replaced two or three wheel bearings (all in the front). My rear bearings have no seals. I do clean and lube them after each race, and usually give them just a BIT of lube during the weekend. I've used stuff as light as Mobil 1, but presently use Motul ATV chain lube (a light spray). It's sticky so doesn't sling off too badly, but it isn't heavy.

Bob